The Truth About Raw Denim

(and Why It’s Worth the Wait)

Raw denim isn’t just “jeans that haven’t been washed.” It’s denim in its purest form — untouched, undistressed, and ready to tell your story.

There are two main types of raw denim: sanforized and unsanforized.
Don’t worry, we’ll get into what that means (and why it matters) in a bit.

What “Raw” Really Means

When we call jeans “raw,” think of them like a blank canvas. They haven’t been pre-faded, sanded, or stonewashed. The magic happens when you wear them.

As you move, sit, and live in them, the denim molds to your body. It creases behind your knees, fades at your thighs, and wears down at your wallet pocket.

Those marks? They’re called fades — and no two pairs are ever the same. They’re shaped by your habits, your life, your story.

Pre-faded jeans might look similar, but they’re made to mimic that look with lasers and chemicals. Real fades tell a story — fake ones just look like they’re trying too hard.

The image on the right shows a comparison between a new and a worn pair of raw denim jeans from N&F (left-hand twill).

Why Raw Denim Lasts Longer

Here’s the thing: raw denim outlives pre-distressed jeans.

Every time denim gets bleached, sanded, or lasered, the fibers weaken. That’s why those “worn-in” jeans from the mall often fall apart faster.

With raw denim, you break them in naturally. That means:

  • No fake wear and tear
  • Stronger cotton fibers
  • Longer lifespan

And honestly? It’s just more sustainable. Instead of buying something that already looks old, you’re creating your own pair that ages beautifully.

What the Heck Is Sanforization?

Alright, let’s talk sanforization.

It’s a fancy word for a simple process: pre-shrinking cotton denim before it’s cut and sewn into jeans.

Before this was invented in the 1920s (shoutout to Sanford Lockwood Cluett), jeans could shrink a lot after washing — sometimes a few sizes smaller.

Back then, people didn’t wash jeans often. They were workwear, worn over other clothes, baggy and held up by suspenders.

Sanforization changed that. It made denim more predictable — you could finally buy jeans that fit and wouldn’t surprise-shrink after their first wash.

Sanforized vs. Unsanforized: The Quick Lowdown

Sanforized

  • Shrinkage: Minimal (1-3%)
  • Best for: Everyday wear
  • Pro tip: You can safely wash these in a machine

Unsanforized (Shrink-to-Fit)

  • Shrinkage: Significant (5–10%)
  • Best for: Hardcore denim fans
  • Pro tip: Soak before hemming or wearing. That “bathtub method” comes from here.

There’s a small but loyal group of denimheads who love unsanforized denim. Some never wash their jeans at all. Others size up and shrink them themselves for that perfect fit.

But if you’re new to raw denim (or just want to keep things easy) – go sanforized.
They still give you amazing fades, without the unpredictable shrink drama.

Bottom Line

Raw denim is about patience, personality, and longevity. Each pair starts stiff and dark — but the more you wear them, the more they become yours.

And if you’re buying sanforized jeans from us?
Good news: you can toss them in the washing machine. Just follow our wash guide.